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life is surf ....so paddle in!
by Tony (movies profile)
Apr 19, 2005
2
of
2 people found this review helpful
I grew up watching Endless Summer, I loved North Shore, and I want to rent Big Wednesday again. I rarely surf these days. I liked Riding Giants precisely because of the surfing history they included because I hadn't seen it before. Some of the punks on here may find that boring... screw them. I wonder sometimes if Laird is really a nice guy, or a poor brecito Lombre. I want to believe that he is a good guy, but the way he takes credit for every innovation in modern surfing from tow-in, to strap-surfing makes me wonder. But there is something deeper in Riding Giants that goes beyond the "Laird for governor of the islands" campaign prep that we seem to be getting.
The movie Basquiat pointed out that soul surfing is a metaphor for living a life in balance with nature. Waterskiing, which is very similar to tow surfing, was used as a metaphor for a life in decline. I went down to Doheney State Beach the other day and saw a Dad helping his six year old daughter learn to surf, and it was so cool.
Many people don't know that Doheney the man, actually popularized the use of oil back in the last century for the production of gasoline. So we have a surfer to thank for one of the greatest problems of our century, the gas powered car. We fight wars over oil now and smog has ruined most of southern california. Life has gone out of balance down here.
Maybe surfing and the surfers like Laird can help put life back in balance again. There is a technology called energy towers that could change everything in our world. If energy towers were used worldwide, we would never have to burn fossil fuel again. They use heat from the sun to create electrical energy thru the use of continually running wind turbines that create clean renewable power. They can produce clean fresh water from sea water at the same time. They also can clean air pollution out of smog plauged regions! They also humidify the air and reduce fire danger in arid regions like southern california. They also produce enough excess power to create large artificial surfing lagoons and windsurfing spots with the ideal "big wave" conditions that come naturally only once a century. Imagine perfect 80 foot high tubes breaking every 30 seconds day and night! It would be wonderful if a guy like Laird would take some of his money and reputation and put it behind such a worthy cause.
It would be kind of cool if that "good for nothing" surfing sport actually ended up solving some of our century's most vexing environmental problems. So if Laird contacts me, I guess I will find out if he is the good soul surfer image guy or not! |
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